Today I'd like to focus on sharpeners.
I've a few different ones that I've collected over the years. Not as many as other artists, I'm sure. I found my ideal sharpeners pretty quickly, so I lucked out there. I would like to apologize for the state of these. I didn't think to clean the reservoir of shavings or wipe down the sides before taking photos. So they're a little messy. Hey, they're well loved.
This first one gets the most use. It's an Alvin rotary lead pointer that I use for all my drawing leads.

I prefer to use leads and lead holders over regular pencils. I like the feel and the grip better. This little thing gives me a great point and is very durable. I've had it for at least five years now and it hasn't broken yet. The white circle in the front is a small roll of cotton that is used to clean your tip after sharpening.

You can actually clean the inside of the lead pointer easily with soap and water. Just be sure to dry it off well before recapping it so the metal doesn't rust.
Colored pencils can be hard to sharpen without breaking, especially soft ones like the Prismacolor brand. While I don't do much with colored pencils these days, I used to. I went through a few different sharpeners before finding one I was truly happy with.
I figured since Prismacolor makes the pencils, their sharpeners must be just right. Now some people use these next two with no problems. Me, I've found them to be a little too harsh on the pencils. I keep them around for traveling, but that's about it.
The first is the Prismacolor oval.

This is a pretty basic sharpener.

It has a small reservoir for shavings, a metal blade, and a cap to protect the sharpener. It's cute and stylish, but didn't really fit my needs. The reservoir fills much too quickly for my liking. It also made the point a little too sharp and narrow, leading to easy breakage.

The other sharpener Prismacolor has to offer is their standard.

It's heftier than the oval with a bigger reservoir. Not only that, it has two different blades, one for narrow sharpening and the other for wide.

While an improvement on the oval, I still wasn't thrilled with this one. It cut the wood around the tip a little roughly, leading to a prickly surface. I tend to hold my pencils a little close to the tip, so the rough surface was not pleasant.
The bit of plastic with the Prismacolor logo on it needs to be removed before the sharpener can be dissembled and emptied. Note, removal and reassembly should be done carefully. I've already snapped one of the little tabs which hold the logo piece onto the body.

My second favorite sharpener is our corgi's least favorite. It's the Industrial Grade 2WFU2.

I ran across this on sale and figured I'd give it a try. I'm glad I did! Turns out it works wonderfully on the Prismalcolors. It consistently gives me a nice, smooth point with no breakage. This one runs on four AA batters which, while sounds like a lot, very rarely need to be changed. It also came with a replacement blade.

It does fill up rather quickly, but the result is well worth it. Now if only Holly would stop trying to attack this one whenever I use it.

While the 2WFU2 is good, the king is my Dahle 155.

Matt bought me this sharpener years ago and it's served me well. The Dahle can be held or clamped to the desk. It also has a dial in the back which lets you adjust how wide or sharp of a point you'd like.

But, one of the best things about the Dahle is its automatic feed and shut-off mechanism. Just push the two metal "rabbit ears" on the top together, pull the facing forward, place your pencil into the hole, release the "ears", and sharpen away. Once your point has reached the sharpness set by the dial on the back, the mechanism won't allow you to go further. No more over sharpening!

The Dahle can also be taken apart for easy cleaning. This is useful since - unlike the lead pointer or the Prismacolor sharpeners - the Dahle can work with just about anything, from colored pencils to hard, woodless graphite.

Out of all of them the Dahle is the priciest. Still, it makes up for the cost in its durability, ease of maintenance, and wide range of uses. It's by far my favorite.
I hope this look at some of my tools has been interesting. I'll do another, similar-type post later on. For now I need to get to work. Later!
"A worker may be the hammer's master, but the hammer still prevails. A tool knows exactly how it is meant to be handled, while the user of the tool can only have an approximate idea."
-- Milan Kundera
5 comments:
AAAAAHHHHHH!!! I WANT A DAHLE! IWANNADAHLE!!! :-)
I've been fighting pencil sharpeners ever since I started using Prismacolors and the 'best' thing I've found so far is a very worn 40+ year old Apsco hand-crank model. It makes way too sharp a point for colored pencils, but it's also broken -far- fewer 'leads' than either of the hand-held German sharperners I have.
Do you know if the Dahle is still made? How expensive? (more-or-less) WHERE they can be found???
THANKS for this post!!!
Ed :-)
Hi Ed, try here
http://www.dickblick.com/products/dahle-professional-pencil-sharpener/?clickTracking=true
Thanks Matt! Very useful. I went to your link and then looked at the same sharpener on other sites.
It's interesting that the best reviews for this sharpener were for older construction, and it looks like the 'change' appears to be fairly recent. I think Darc said yours/hers is about 5 years old.
Is your Dahle 155 pencil sharpener made in Germany or China? Current production is apparently "engineered" in Germany but -made- in China.
Are the gears inside your sharpener metal or plastic? Current production uses plastic; early ones were metal.
The Dahle site says Jerry's Artarama is their dealer local to my area and they have discontinued carrying it; next closest listed dealer is 2 hours away. With the recent(?) change in construction, this looks like something I'd want to see in person (and maybe try?) before buying.
Thanks, Matt! Overall this is very encouraging! :-)
I'm not sure where ours was made, but it is an older model. The blade and main gear appear to be metal, but the outer part of the crank is heavy duty plastic. The body of the sharpener is plastic as well, but very strong. It almost feels like metal, but it's not.
I guess it's a case of cutting corners to save money. :(
Hold onto your Dahle and take care of it as well as possible! In all the reviews I read while researching these things, all the best reviews were on old, German-made sharpeners. Several have been going strong for 15-30+ years!
I traded emails with Dahle and 2(3?) email sellers; no one has any German-made units around, all Chinese. Reviews on the Chinese-made sharpeners say I do not want one. Maybe I'll eventually find a good, used one. :-)
Returned a hand-held sharpener today ("Dux Alvin", German) and picked up a simpler, 2-hole German-made "KUM" hand-held. I have an idea to try if the KUM has the same breakage problems as all the rest.
I noticed with the Dux that the wood sometimes looked as if the blade dug too deep and then worked it way back to the surface again, leaving a small ridge in the wood. I'm thinking a very thin shim under the blade might make it take a shallower bite out of the wood and lead and put less stress on the lead. I'd have to turn the pencil longer to sharpen it, but I'd probably save time in the long run by not having to sharpen the same pencil to recover from 1-or-more breakages. Also spend a lot less on early replacement pencils.
Both the Dux and KUM hand-helds have blades held on by a screw, but the Dux is a canister type with the sharpener positioned where it'd be harder to work on. The KUM is the all open, hold-over-trash-can type. Also has a brass body; nice, pretty and hefty. The Dux was fancier and prettier. It looked like a clear red ink bottle. Would look great sitting on an old writing desk. :-)
Dux $10, KUM $5. (There was a similar KUM in magnesium for $2; not nearly as pretty or hefty, but otherwise the same.)
Just thought you'd like to hear an update. Thanks again for your help!
Ed
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